Removal and installation of a head of cylinders

Withdrawal

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative battery terminal.

2. Disconnect the wires and unscrew the spark plugs (see chapter 1, section 32). To simplify the subsequent installation procedure, mark the wires.

3. Remove all accessories and mounting brackets. Label each for ease of installation.

4. Disconnect all wires and hoses from the head (heads) cylinders. For ease of installation, label each one.

5. Remove intake manifold (see section 7).

6. Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head to be removed (see section 9).

7. Remove valve covers (see section 4).

8. Remove the rocker arms and valve lifters (see section 5).

9. Alternately loosen the cylinder head mounting bolts 1/4 turn until they can be unscrewed by hand; at the same time, go from one bolt to another in the sequence indicated in the illustration (see illustration).



10. Disconnect the cylinder head from the engine. If you feel resistance, do not try to remove the head with a lever inserted between the head and the cylinder block - this may damage their mating surfaces. Again, check that all the bolts are loose, then use a block of wood and a hammer to tap the cylinder head and try to rip it off. Be careful as the heads sit on dowel pins. As a last resort, try to detach the head using the lever installed in its rear corner; while trying not to damage anything. After removing the head, place it on wooden blocks so as not to damage the gasket surfaces.




11. Procedures for disassembling and checking the condition of the cylinder head are presented in chapter 2, part 2.3.

Installation

12. Before installation, the mating surfaces of the head and cylinder block should be thoroughly cleaned.

13. Using a scraper, remove carbon deposits and old gasket material from mating surfaces, then wash them with lacquer thinner or acetone. If grease remains on the mating surfaces during reassembly, the gasket may not seal sufficiently, resulting in oil leakage. When working with the cylinder block, it is necessary to cover the recesses of the pushers with rags to prevent dirt from entering the engine. Remove dirt that has entered the cylinders with a rag or vacuum cleaner.




14. Check the mating surfaces of the block and cylinder head for scoring, deep scratches and other types of damage. If the damage is minor, remove it with a file; in case of severe damage, the only way to eliminate them is to machine the surface.

15. Using a tap of suitable diameter, drive the threads into the holes of the cylinder head bolts. The presence of dirt, traces of sealant and damaged threads will affect the torque value.

16. Position the new gaskets over the dowel pins in the cylinder block. If steel manifold gaskets are used, coat both sides of the gaskets with a thin, even coat of sealant such as K&W Copper Coat before placing them on the cylinder heads (or its equivalent). Gaskets "non-retorquing" ("without a moment") installed without sealant, unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise. Some types of gaskets are labeled "TOR" ("Top") And "THIS SIDE UP" ("Upper side"), facilitating the correct installation of the gasket when assembling the assembly (see illustration).



17. Carefully place the head on the cylinder block, being careful not to move the gasket.


18. Apply a coat of Permatex N2 sealant or equivalent to the threads and bottom surfaces of the bolt heads.

19. Tighten the bolts in the recommended sequence (see illustration), the torque specified in the specifications given in this chapter. This is done in three stages, each time adhering to the prescribed sequence.



20. The remaining points are performed in reverse order.

21. Change the oil filter and fill the engine with fresh oil (see chapter 1, section 12).